Bulb Planter vs Drill Auger vs Trowel: The Fastest Way to Plant Bulbs
Planting ten tulips is a pleasant half hour. Planting two hundred crocus in a lawn is a project, and the tool you choose determines whether your wrists, knees or back pay the price.
This guide compares the four common ways to dig bulb holes, explains which works in which soil, and covers a few ergonomic shortcuts for big plantings.
- Trowel: fine for a few bulbs and for mass planting in a shared trench.
- Hand bulb planter: pulls out a neat core; good for medium bulbs in moist, loose soil.
- Long-handled (step-on) planter: lets you plant standing up. Best for larger quantities and anyone who'd rather not kneel.
- Drill auger: the fastest for many holes, especially small bulbs in lawns. Needs a capable drill and careful handling.
- Planting depth is usually based on bulb size. Follow the guidance on the package for each variety.
The four tools compared
| Tool | Best for | Soil that suits it | Downsides |
|---|---|---|---|
| Trowel | Small plantings; trench or group planting | Most | Slow and kneeling-heavy for large numbers |
| Hand bulb planter | Medium bulbs in beds | Loose, moist, not stony | Struggles in clay, dry or rocky soil; wrist strain |
| Long-handled planter | Many medium and large bulbs; standing work | Moist soil, few stones | Heavier; less precise in tight spaces |
| Drill auger | Many holes, small bulbs, lawn naturalizing | Most, including lawns and firmer soil | Needs a strong drill; can kick if it binds |
The humble trowel
For a handful of bulbs, a sturdy trowel is all you need. It's also the best tool for one of the most effective planting methods: digging a wide hole or shallow trench at the right depth and setting a group of bulbs inside together. Clustered plantings often look more natural than single holes in a row, and you dig one hole instead of twenty.
Look for a forged or one-piece trowel that won't bend at the neck. A trowel with depth markings on the blade is especially handy for bulb planting.
Hand bulb planters
A hand bulb planter is a tapered metal cylinder with a handle. You twist it into the soil, lift out a core, drop in a bulb, and then release the soil back into the hole. Some include a squeeze-release handle that drops the plug back out.
- Depth markings on the cylinder make consistent planting easy.
- A sharp, serrated lower edge cuts through turf and roots more easily.
- A soil-release mechanism saves fiddling to get the plug out.
- A comfortable grip matters since you're twisting repeatedly.
Hand planters work best in moist, loose soil. In dry or heavy clay they jam, and in stony soil they won't go down. If you find yourself fighting it, switch tools.
Long-handled step-on planters
These put a coring cylinder at the bottom of a long shaft with a foot step and a T-handle. You press it in with your foot, twist, lift and drop the core. For anyone who finds kneeling difficult, they are a big comfort improvement, and they speed up larger plantings of tulips, daffodils and alliums.
A good long-handled planter has a solid foot plate, a strong weld or joint between shaft and cylinder, and depth markings. They don't work well in rocky ground, and they're a little clumsy in crowded perennial beds.
Drill augers
A garden auger is a spiral bit that fits in a cordless drill. It's the fastest way to make lots of small, uniform holes, which is why it's popular for naturalizing crocus, snowdrops or other small bulbs in lawns. Larger-diameter augers handle bigger bulbs, and long-shaft versions let you work standing up.
What you need for a good result
- Check the drill. Augers put a lot of load on a drill. Use one with enough torque, a side handle if possible, and a clutch or speed control. The auger's packaging often specifies a minimum drill type or chuck size.
- Match bit diameter to bulb size. Small bits suit small bulbs; larger bulbs need wider holes.
- Go slow in stony or rooty soil. Augers can bind suddenly, and the drill can twist in your hands. Brace yourself and keep a firm grip.
- Check for buried lines before drilling deep holes in lawns, especially near irrigation and lighting.
Depth, spacing and soil
A common rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth of roughly two to three times their height, measured to the base of the bulb. Packages and supplier listings usually give a recommended depth and spacing for each variety, and those are the numbers to follow. Planting too shallow can leave bulbs exposed to temperature swings and animals; planting too deep can delay or weaken flowering for some types.
- Plant pointed end up for most bulbs. If you can't tell, sideways usually works out.
- Most bulbs need well-drained soil; waterlogged ground causes rot.
- Water after planting to settle the soil, unless the ground is already wet.
- Mark where you planted so you don't dig into them later.
For timing and variety advice, see our autumn bulb planting guide. If squirrels or voles dig up your bulbs, our vole and gopher control guide covers barriers like wire cages.
Which tool for which planting
The same gardener often needs different tools in different parts of the yard. Here's how the choice usually plays out.
Naturalizing in grass
A drill auger makes quick work of many small holes through turf. A hand planter with a serrated edge works for fewer, larger bulbs.
Between perennials
A trowel or hand planter gives you control around existing roots and crowns. Long-handled tools are clumsy here.
Freshly dug or empty bed
Dig out the whole area to depth, set bulbs in groups, and backfill. No coring tool needed.
Pots and planters
No digging tool at all: fill the pot partway, set bulbs, cover. Layering different bulbs at different depths is a popular approach.
When the soil fights back
If your soil is dry and hard, water the area a day or two before planting so coring tools can bite. If it's full of stones, a coring planter will bounce off; a trowel or a narrow spade lets you work around rocks. If you have heavy clay, dig wider holes and loosen the surrounding soil, because a clean-sided core can act like a little bucket that holds water around the bulb.
Tool care
Wipe soil off coring tools after each session and dry them before storage. A quick touch-up with a file on the cutting edge of a planter or the tip of a trowel keeps them cutting through turf and roots. For general upkeep, see our tool maintenance guide.
Making large plantings easier on your body
- Plant standing up with a long-handled planter or a long-shaft auger.
- Use a kneeler for close work. A foam pad or a kneeler with handles helps you get up and down; see our kneeler guide.
- Batch the steps. Make all the holes first, then drop in all the bulbs, then backfill.
- Use a bucket or apron for bulbs so you're not walking back and forth.
- Plant in clusters where the design allows, so you dig fewer holes.
FAQ
Is a bulb planter better than a trowel?
For a few bulbs or trench planting, a trowel is just as good. A bulb planter is faster and more consistent when you're planting many individual holes in loose, moist soil.
Do drill augers work for planting bulbs?
Yes. They're the fastest way to make many holes, especially for small bulbs in lawns. Use a drill with enough torque, match the bit size to the bulbs, and work carefully in stony soil.
How deep should I plant bulbs?
A common guideline is two to three times the bulb's height. Always check the package or supplier's instructions for your specific variety.
Can I plant bulbs in clay soil?
Many bulbs dislike waterlogged soil, so heavy clay can cause rot. Improving drainage with organic matter, planting in raised areas, or choosing bulbs that tolerate heavier soils helps. Ask a local nursery or extension service what grows well in your area.
Bottom line
For most gardeners, a trowel with depth markings plus one specialty tool is enough. Choose a long-handled planter if you plant lots of medium and large bulbs and want to stay on your feet, or a drill auger if you're naturalizing small bulbs in a lawn.
More seasonal tool guides are on the Garden Gear blog.