Winter garden care
How to Protect Shrubs from Snow and Ice Damage (and What to Do When It Happens)
Some of the worst winter damage in a garden isn't from cold at all. It's from weight. Wet snow and ice pile onto upright evergreens and dense shrubs until branches splay apart, split at the crotch or snap. Snow sliding off a roof can flatten a foundation planting in one go.
Most of this is preventable with a few inexpensive materials and some planning before the first heavy storm. Here's which shrubs are most at risk, the gear that protects them, and how to clear snow without causing more damage.
Quick answer
- Multi-stemmed upright evergreens such as arborvitae and upright junipers are the most likely to splay or split under snow.
- Loosely tie or wrap upright shrubs before winter so stems support each other. Use soft, wide material, not wire.
- Build an A-frame or shelter over shrubs under roof edges where snow slides off.
- Brush snow off gently, upward, while it's fresh. Leave ice alone to melt; shaking or hitting iced branches breaks them.
Which shrubs are most at risk
| Shrub type | Risk | Typical damage |
|---|---|---|
| Upright, multi-stemmed evergreens (arborvitae, upright junipers, some yews) | High | Stems splay outward and may not spring back; splits where stems join |
| Dense rounded evergreens (boxwood, some hollies) | Moderate to high | Center collapses or opens up under heavy snow |
| Young or newly planted shrubs | Higher than mature plants | Bent leaders, broken branches |
| Shrubs under roof eaves | Very high | Crushed by sliding snow and ice |
| Deciduous shrubs | Lower | Less snow load without leaves, but ice can still break brittle branches |
Shrubs that have been sheared into a tight shape tend to collect more snow on top, and plants with several stems joined low down are more prone to splitting. Prevention is most worthwhile for these.
Snow type matters too. Light, dry snow often blows or slides off on its own. Wet, heavy snow and freezing rain are the real threats, because they cling to every branch and add weight quickly. Watch forecasts for wet snow or ice and check your most vulnerable shrubs during and after those storms rather than waiting until the next morning.
Method 1: Tying and wrapping upright shrubs
For arborvitae and other upright, multi-stemmed shrubs, the goal is to hold the stems together so they support each other and snow can't wedge between them.
- Pick soft, wide material such as soft tree-tie strap, wide garden tape, old pantyhose, or strips of burlap. Avoid wire, thin string or anything that cuts into bark.
- Start near the bottom and tie a loop around the base of the stems, loose enough that it doesn't crush them.
- Spiral upward around the shrub, drawing stems gently together, with loops roughly every foot or so. Keep it snug but not tight.
- Tie off near the top, leaving the very tip free.
- Remove it in spring once the risk of heavy snow is past. Ties left on through the growing season can girdle stems.
Some gardeners use bird netting or plastic mesh wrapped around the outside instead. It's quick to install and spreads pressure over the whole shrub.
Shop soft tree tiesShop shrub wrap netting
Method 2: A-frames and shelters
For shrubs under eaves, along driveways where plows pile snow, or plants you simply can't afford to lose, a physical shelter is the most reliable protection.
Wooden A-frame
Two panels of plywood or wooden slats hinged or nailed at the top, set over the shrub like a tent. Sheds sliding snow and ice from roofs.
Shrub shelters and covers
Sold as frames with a fabric cover or as rigid tent-style shelters in several sizes. Easy to put up and take down each year.
Stake-and-burlap screen
Stakes driven around the shrub with burlap wrapped around the stakes. Blocks wind, salt spray and some snow, though not heavy roof slides.
- Leave space between the shelter and the foliage. Contact points can rub and trap moisture.
- Make the roof slope steep enough that snow slides off rather than building up.
- Anchor shelters firmly, since winter wind gets under them.
- Put shelters up before the ground freezes hard, so stakes can be driven in.
Shop shrub sheltersShop burlap covers
Do fabric shrub covers help with snow?
Fabric "shrub jackets" and frost covers are mainly sold for cold and wind protection. On their own, without a frame, they don't stop snow load much, and wet snow can even pile up on fabric and push the shrub down. They're most useful:
- Over a frame or stakes, where the fabric sheds snow and the structure takes the weight.
- For tender or marginally hardy shrubs that need wind and winter sun protection as well.
- To shield shrubs from salt spray along roads and walks, alongside using a gentler, chloride-free ice melt on nearby paths.
Choose breathable fabric, not plastic sheeting. Plastic traps heat and moisture on sunny winter days, which can damage foliage.
Removing snow safely
| Do | Don't |
|---|---|
| Brush off fresh, light snow with a broom, pushing upward from below | Knock branches downward, which adds to the bending force |
| Clear snow during or soon after a storm, before it compacts or freezes | Shake or hit branches coated in ice; frozen wood is brittle and snaps |
| Let ice melt naturally | Pour hot water on iced shrubs |
| Prioritize upright evergreens and young plants | Climb into or lean on shrubs to reach the top |
| Throw shoveled snow somewhere other than shrubs | Pile salty snow from paths onto beds |
A soft-bristled push broom or a long-handled snow brush lets you reach the tops of taller shrubs from the ground. Don't use anything with a sharp scraper edge.
What to do after snow damage
Bent but not broken
Many bent stems slowly recover once the weight is gone, especially on younger plants. If an upright shrub has splayed open, gently pull the stems back together and tie them loosely, then remove the ties in spring or once the stems hold their position.
Split or broken stems
- Remove clearly broken branches with a clean cut back to a healthy branch or the main stem. Clean cuts heal better than ragged tears. Sharp pruning shears or a pruning saw make this easier, and our pruning saw checklist covers what to look for.
- For a large shrub split at the main crotch, or anything structural on a tree, consult a certified arborist. Some splits can be cabled or braced by a professional. Others mean the plant is better replaced.
- Wait for milder weather for major pruning where you can, but remove hanging, broken pieces right away so they don't tear further.
Plan for next year
If one shrub gets crushed every winter, the location may simply be wrong. Consider moving it, replacing it with something lower or more open, or building a permanent shelter.
The bottom line
Quick verdict
Loosely tie upright evergreens before the first big snow, build an A-frame or buy a shelter for anything under a roof edge, and brush fresh snow upward off branches. Leave ice to melt on its own. These simple steps prevent most snow-load damage.
Take care of it in late fall when the soil is still workable and the weather is pleasant. It's a lot easier than trying to wrap a shrub in a snowstorm.
FAQ
Should I wrap my arborvitae for winter?
Loosely tying or wrapping upright arborvitae is a common way to keep heavy snow from splaying or splitting the stems, especially in snowy areas. Use soft, wide material and remove it in spring.
Should I knock snow off my shrubs?
Brush off fresh, light snow gently, pushing upward from below. Don't shake or hit branches that are coated in ice, because frozen branches are brittle and can snap. Let ice melt on its own.
Will snow-bent branches recover?
Often they do, especially on younger shrubs, once the weight is removed. Gently tie splayed stems back together if needed. Branches that are cracked or snapped should be cut cleanly back to healthy wood.
Do fabric shrub covers prevent snow damage?
On their own they help little with heavy snow, and wet snow can pile up on them. They work better over a frame or stakes that carry the weight, and they're also useful against wind and salt spray.